American

If you have lots of money, dinner at The Ryland Inn is an experience not to be missed. In fact, even if you have to refinance your home - go for it. You'll be glad you did. But if you're wanting a reservation at eight o'clock next Saturday, forget it. You should have called a few weeks ago. However, for a Sunday night reservation we called only a couple days in advance and had a choice of times.

Located only eight miles west of Somerville, New Jersey, among gentrified farms and hunt country in upscale Hunterdon County, is this imposing 200-year old Inn. The stately architecture and bucolic surroundings are themselves enough to make you glad you made the trip.

Inside are eight dining rooms, beautifully appointed with decorations and furniture of the period. There is a club like atmosphere, but of course without the accompanying cigar smoke. The very attentive staff made us feel they were genuinely happy to serve us. The dining room we were ushered into was fairly small, with a cozy, intimate feeling. We later were surprised however, to find it a bit noisy.

Even though we consider ourselves to be sophisticated diners, we found the menu somewhat confusing. First off, we asked to see the wine list (which we would rank among the best and most complete we have ever experienced). With help from the sommelier we selected a moderately priced ($45) zinfandel. It was acceptable, but we agreed later that as long as we were going for broke we should have upped the ante and selected something more in keeping with the out-of-this-world cuisine. It was also unfortunate (and one of the few faults we found with the staff) that nobody informed us until after the wine was served, that wine pairing is offered whereby a preselected wine is served with each course.

But getting back to the menu - which is actually four menus in one. Three of them, including one vegetarian, are tasting menus. The fourth is called prix-fixe, but seemed to us to actually be ala carte. We readily decided to try a tasting menu. It was suggested that it would be best if we both ordered the same selection because that way we would both receive each course at the same time. With minimum discussion we selected the Gourmand Tasting Menu consisting of ten courses plus a couple of complimentary dishes that Chef Craig Shelton throws in as a pleasing extra. The price without wines was $110 per person. If you should opt for wine pairing it will cost an additional $80 or $150 per person, depending on just how sophisticated your palate and how heavy your wallet.

The first course (compliments of the Chef) was a tiny teaser of aspic with an absolutely exquisitely refreshing salad having a hint of rice vinegar in a light dressing. Then came a capriccio of shrimp with dashi gelee and fresh uni with cucumber. Sad to say it would have been better left in the kitchen. The taste was reminiscent of miso soup in a Japanese restaurant. Not even the pearls of wasabi surrounding the plate could create much spark. However, a couple of so-so dishes can be forgiven in light of the fantastic medly of tastes and textures that followed. Diver scallops deserve at least 4 thumbs up! As scallop lovers, we have sampled them in some of the better restaurants around the world but never have we experienced such harmonious blend of flavors as was created by the sauce of sweet coconut milk and spicy curry. The himachi fish with melon and monk fish liver provided a rhapsody of interesting flavors and textures. Also memorable was the lobster with chestnut soup - creamy and comforting, and a wonderful foil for the well prepared lobster. And the Scottish roe venison on Swiss chard was wonderfully tender and succulent. The rack of lamb with potatoes, peppers and artichoke was deliciously flavored though we both agreed it was just a bit too rare for our liking.

Desserts were absolutely nonstop, starting with a superb cheese course with pear tart, followed by a tart that is a chocolate lovers dream come true, and ending with a complimentary tray of goodies that included lemon grass soup that was as unbelievably refreshing as the very first dish that was served, providing a fitting finale to a culinary experience.

Will we go back? Absolutely! Anyone out there have a credit card we can borrow?

Last reviewed 3/01
Grumpy Gourmet