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The
Restaurant
160 Prospect Avenue, Hackensack, NJ 07601
201-678-1100
www.therestaurant.net
American
Many culinary establishments try, usually with less than satisfying results, to do many things. But in the high-rise section of Hackensack, New Jersey, is a well managed establishment named simply The Restaurant, that excels in many ways. First and foremost, it is a noteworthy upscale restaurant where we've had many enjoyable meals including dinner, lunch, and Sunday brunch.
Off to one side is the Equis Lounge, a very pleasant area that can be quite intimate, but Thursday through Saturday evenings tends to be jumping with revelers. Also, there is a gourmet deli with an interesting assortment of take-out foods. And Iona tries to never miss any of the fabulous wine tasting dinners held in the private terrace room overlooking the main dining room.
The well chosen wine list is extensive, with a good selection by the glass and also by the half bottle. Prices are moderate, ranging from $22 to almost $500 if you are so inclined.
Executive Chef Cliff Pereira and Chef de Cuisine Gary O'Dowd are a good team, creating attractive and flavorful cuisine. The only fault we find is a lack of salt in some dishes.
At one recent dinner, Iona ordered a salad of grilled asparagus and shrimp in light vinaigrette. The preparation once again demonstrated that the staff is skillful in preparation, except for the lack of salt in the vinaigrette. On the other hand, at the same meal the chef's fried oysters, lightly breaded in blue corn meal and served on the half shell with avocado corn relish and topped with a dab of chipotle aioli, was absolutely superb.
Iona occasionally stops by for lunch, which is wonderful and relaxing. Recently she had a wonderfully creamy and flavorful risotto (the chef creates a different one each day). The only flaw was again, a noticeable lack of salt, which needs to be added during preparation. Adding it later is never quite adequate.
One delicious entree that we first encountered at one of the wine tasting dinners and subsequently have ordered in the dining room, is cedar planked salmon. It is served on - you guessed it - a cedar plank, and topped with shredded red cabbage salad including pea sprouts. Always, it is perfectly prepared and cooked as rare or as well done as you desire.
The Restaurant also has a real knack for the preparation of lamb. Regardless of whether it be lamb chops, leg of lamb, or roast rack of lamb, it is always tender, succulent and mild, and never the least bit gamy. The rack of lamb served with cranberry glaze, brazing greens, goat cheese and whipped potatoes is a must for anyone who loves lamb.
The wine tasting dinners are always educational, enjoyable and just a lot of fun. The $90 price tag includes tax and gratuity, and really is a good bargain considering all that is provided. You can expect the selection of wines to be well chosen to highlight a specific vineyard, area, or other theme, and there is always a knowledgeable representative or sommelier to present a brief and informal discussion of the wines for the evening. The group is usually small enough for informal discussion, and we've never been disappointed with our congenial dinner companions. The food and wine are always selected to perfectly complement each other.
Last reviewed 12/02
Grumpy Gourmet
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