Thai Cuisine

Several years ago the Four Seasons Thai restaurant opened at 1353 Stelton Road, Piscataway, NJ. It was - and still is - one side of a small store front. The other half is a grocery store specializing in out-of-the-ordinary oriental food products (where Iona loves to browse). The cuisine appears inauspicious, but flavors range from the very delicate to very zesty. And the prices are unbelievably affordable.

From this modest beginning, the owner and his family have parlayed this culinary venture into much larger facilities. At 217 Raritan Ave., Highland Park (which for years housed the landmark Homestead Bar) he opened a more up-scale restaurant named Pad Thai. This restaurant has essentially the same menu, but sports a liquor license and moderately higher prices.

The most recent expansion is Sawadee at 400 Main Street, Metuchen, NJ. This is another step up. It is much more spacious and even has a pianist on weekends, but still serves the same delicious flavors at relatively affordable prices. Most dishes on the regular menu are $8.95, with specials ranging from $10.95 - 15.95.

We visited Sawadee on a Saturday night just a few days after the grand opening (late December, 2001). The place was packed but the staff already had their act together so that the service was reasonably smooth and efficient. We did encounter one screw up. We ordered a noodle dish but were served fried rice and shrimp instead. Management tried to make amends but by that time we had tasted the "mistake" and were not about to let them take it away.

We ordered a carafe of house chardonnay, which, at $10.50, was surprisingly good. Our meal was started with an order of spring rolls. These small, cigar shaped rolls were fried crispy and not greasy. The rolled rice paper was great although the filler was somewhat lackluster. Dan ordered steamed mussels with Thai basil and lemon grass, and served with a hot, tangy dipping sauce. The mussels were spicy, succulent and plump, and were prepared just to the point of perfection. The accompanying dipping sauce was very hot and added wonderful zest. (On subsequent visits we have tried to order this dish but find that unfortunately it is not on the regular menu).

Iona ordered a chicken stir-fried medley containing mushrooms, fresh chili peppers, Chinese broccoli and calamari. She ordered it "mild" but perhaps it should have been "medium" so as to have a bit more zip. Nevertheless, it was a worthy dish, especially when combined with the shrimp fried rice (and she couldn't resist spooning over it some of the delicious broth from the mussels).

The menu touts Singha beer as "the original Thai beer". We are not beer lovers and didn't try it, but we imagine it would go well with Thai food. Also it should be noted Sawadee offers an extensive take out menu, and will even deliver. We were told that the owner has already established two restaurants in New York City, and soon will have one in Princeton, NJ. As long as he continues the wonderful cuisine and good service at affordable prices, we say "go for it"!

Last reviewed 11/02
Grumpy Gourmet