Seafood

Many New Yorkers have come to think of "Oceana" and "Rick Moonen" as being virtually synonymous. Moonen has been executive chef and partner at Oceana for many years. He is known not only for his creativity in preparing exciting seafood dishes, but also as an outspoken advocate for preservation of the tenuous ecological balance of sea life.

We made a dinner reservation at Oceana, expecting to be treated to one of Moonen's notoriously delicious meals. Upon our arrival we were astonished to find that he is no longer associated with the restaurant. Nevertheless, we settled in at our table in an attempt to make the best of it. Our apprehension was soon allayed. Chef Michael Schenk and his staff are proceeding very admirably. Schenk is a native of Germany, has had much experience in fine restaurants both abroad and in America, and obviously has exceptional talents.

In addition to an interesting selection of breads (sour dough, apple cider, olive, and fennel), we received a complimentary Greek appetizer that was absolutely addictive. This creamy, potato-based elixir containing milk, bread, and red caviar set the stage for the outstanding meal that was to follow.

The three course, fixed price menu is $68, or (as we chose), $98 with matching wines. Dan chose an appetizer of flash cooked scallop and salmon carpaccio accompanied by spicy micro sprouts and green peppercorn vinaigrette. Iona started with wild striped bass ceviche with grapefruit, lemon verbena, and yuzu vinaigrette. This appetizer was especially scrumptious when eaten with the accompanying grilled flat bread and Greek appetizer.

Dan's choice of entree was grilled loup de mer (farm raised flat fish having white meat), accompanied with braised artichokes, baby spinach and sweet garlic. Iona had seared skate with fingerling potatoes, roasted shallots and baby arugula. This came with a caper browned butter that had the traditional nutty flavor. Both entrees were fantastically presented and unbelievably delicious.

An interesting matching wine was served with each dish. In some instances red wines were matched with fish, which we found to be imaginative and in good taste. During the meal we struck up a conversation with a delightful couple at the next table, who thought it a bit bizarre to be served red wine with seafood. But we found the combination to be quite pleasing.

Pastry Chef David Charmichael also creates noteworthy desserts befitting the excellent meals at Oceana. Iona chose a pistachio semifreddo, which was like a stack of little ice cream sandwiches. Not to be outdone, Dan opted for the pastry chef's sampler ( $8 supplement) containing peach pie, rhubarb crumble, raspberry Napoleon, fig tart, and vanilla ice cream. The desserts were accompanied by moscato , a late harvest sweet, fruit flavored wine.

Although we were rather disappointed to learn Rick Moonen is no longer at Oceana, we came away with the feeling that Oceana is in good hands, and its reputation for outstanding seafood is still intact.

Last reviewed 9/02
Grumpy Gourmet