American

Last year when we reviewed Nicholas after it had been open just a short time, we predicted that as soon as it started running more smoothly it just might stack up as one of the best restaurants in New Jersey. During our most recent visit we were pleased to find that our prophecy is being fulfilled.

This restaurant is tops on nearly every count: cuisine, service, and atmosphere. Owners Nicholas Harary and his wife Melissa both have impeccable credentials, and have organized a staff that can impress the most discriminating clientele. He was the youngest person ever to graduate from The Culinary Institute of America, and has also served as sommelier at the renowned Jean-Georges in New York. David Corcoran of The New York Times describes him as "--a force of nature, one of those people who descend on the planet out of nowhere and set off earthquakes." Equally, Melissa has been a Danny Meyer protégé, serving as sommelier at Restaurant Tabla in New York.

With the help of Chef de Cuisine Corey Heyer and his kitchen staff, Nicholas turns out cuisine that rivals the best that can be found anywhere. Our dining companions for the evening, well traveled and with sophisticated palates, declared this to be the best dining experience this side of Alsace. The subtle blends of flavors, textures, and aromas throughout the meal provide a continuing succession of pleasing sensations.

The meal is choreographed like a fine symphony. The tastes and textures of each dish creates a harmony with point and counterpoint. The flavors blend like a pleasing melody but with an occasional cymbal clash of exquisitely tingling flavors that excite the taste buds. The serving staff participates in the choreography with their somewhat formal but unobtrusive style. When the entrees are brought to the table, they are covered with bright stainless steel dome shaped cloches. In a ceremony that seems ostentatious when done by a less capable staff, the covers are all removed simultaneously so that in one stroke everyone at the table beholds his or her beautifully crafted entrée.

As might be expected in a restaurant owned by two sommeliers, the wine list is extremely well chosen, with a wide selection of wines by the bottle, the half bottle, and by the glass. Many of the wines are from France, but Nicholas searches the world over to seek small wineries that have exceptional quality. On our first visit we asked if wine pairing was available. Although not shown on the menu, for a price of $40 each, Nicholas Harary himself selected a wine to match each dish. On our recent visit we opted to start with a half bottle of Sanciere ($26) to go with our appetizers, followed by a full bottle of Italian red Rosso Dell' Abate Chiarini ($40). 

The seasonal menu is divided into three sections: a two-course dinner at $38, three courses at $55, and a six course tasting menu at $75. While some may consider these prices to be high, we would ask, "compared to what?" It is difficult to find comparable cuisine in New Jersey. When compared to say, a four star restaurant in New York, the prices are a bargain. 

On both of our visits we decided to go all out and select the tasting menu, which allows a selection from two items for each course. Even before the first course, our appetites were whetted by a complementary offering of paper-thin slices of fluke that had been marinated in citrus juice and olive oil, and garnished with watercress. It had a clean, fresh taste with just a hint of saltiness. The first course of yellow fin tuna tart was served on a puff pastry with fennel puree and sherry soy vinaigrette, pickled vegetables, and watercress garnish. Also as a first course were three Long Island Oysters, lightly marinated and served with red onions and chive crème fraiche. Marinating provided a very pleasing texture and the crème fraiche was an interesting foil for these luscious morsels.

We were all convinced it couldn't get any better than this. But wait - here come the escargot with sweet garlic broth served with brioche crouton, and the seared sea scallops with frisee and black truffle vinaigrette. The scallops were lightly seared on the outside but moist inside. The truffle vinaigrette was ladled over the scallops by the server. This wonderful sauce had a hint of apple, and is the sort of touch that sets Nicholas apart from would be competitors.

And so went the entire meal - with everyone thinking it couldn't get better, but then it did! Our server ladled banyuls broth over the almond and hazelnut crusted grouper with salsify. We were told the banyuls broth is made from sweet dessert wine that has been turned into vinegar and then cooked to make a heavenly syrup. All this and we haven't yet gotten to the main entrée. Fortunately the tasting menu provides modest size portions, otherwise no mere mortal would make it all the way.

For the main entrée another tough choice must be made. Either braised suckling pig with poached quince and cinnamon jus, or Moroccan spiced loin of lamb with cous-cous and cucumber mint relish. Fortunately some of us decided one way and some the other, so we could all get a taste of each dish. Although the lamb was spectacular, the cous-cous that came with it was infused with Moroccan spices that came alive - one could even say burst with flavor on your tongue. And the cucumber relish provided a cool, refreshing counterpoint. The suckling pig was served as a medallion of pulled pork under a blanket of crispy pork rind crackling. It was interspersed with layers of quince, accompanied by a parsnip puree, and had a hint of cinnamon.. 

One might think all this would be enough, but wait - it gets even better. As with his wine selections, Nicholas Harary searches the world over to stock his table of artisinal cheeses. A selection of ten different cheeses, along with thin slices of a wonderful raisin bread, was placed in the center of the table for each of us to taste the medley of exquisite flavors ranging from mild to strong, soft to firm, and from the milk of cow, goat, and sheep. These provided such wonderful contrasts that they could have, by themselves, made up a satisfying meal.

The tasty plate of desserts created the finale to this symphony by again furnishing a marvelous medley of tastes and textures. There was a wonderful variety of irresistible flavors of kiwi, mango, berries, crème brulees, and to die for molten chocolate cake with Nicholas' own vanilla ice cream. All this medley was accompanied by a cymbal clash created by a ball of passion fruit and meringue.

We are pleased to report that Restaurant Nicholas is not only fulfilling our prophecy, but has actually raised the bar for fine restaurants in New Jersey.

Last reviewed 11/02
Grumpy Gourmet