Seafood

Perhaps it was just the newness and lack of teamwork among the staff that caused general confusion when we visited McCormick & Schmick's during the first week after opening. We experienced several minor glitches, but the worst was when Iona tried to get her pasta, fresh pepper, cheese, and a glass of wine all to come together at one time. The Keystone Cops would have been envious of the staff's efforts. Fortunately, on our second visit the staff had settled down to a smooth routine. 

With 36 restaurants in the chain, this is the first to open in New Jersey. The motif might be described as Century-ago-rustic-elegance. The floor is carpeted but the room is surrounded with attractive wooden booths (in the bar area the ceiling-high backs are hung with velvet drapes). Except for some tall, odd shaped chandeliers that looked to us like they don't quite belong, the lighting is discrete but adequate for reading the menu. The location, Riverside Square Mall, is becoming a place to meet for dinner, as it already has other up scale chain restaurants: Houston's, Morton Steak House, and Cheesecake Factory.

The moderately priced but well chosen wine list contains a good selection of everything from Champagne to domestic and imported varietals, including an adequate number of wines by the glass. As for cuisine, the emphasis is on seafood but the moderately priced menu also includes items to please landlubbers. The many interesting-sounding dishes is evidence of an imaginative and skilled chef. 

The appetizer menu contains many tantalizing selections including soups and salads. On our last visit we shared a dip of blue crab, shrimp and artichoke, topped with Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese, and served with fried pita chips. The chips were more greasy than necessary, and there was a faint saltiness to the dip. Nevertheless, we eagerly snarfed it down with a glass of sauvignon blanc. 

From the pastas, Iona chose a penne with salmon, asparagus tips, peas and pesto cream sauce ($9.40). Although tasty, she thought the basil was hardly detectable, and the dish might have benefited by the addition of garlic. Dan's Northwest salmon and halibut sauté with asparagus, mushrooms, red raspberries and hazelnuts in a cream sauce ($15.60) was an interesting melody of flavors, with the hazelnuts complimenting the sauce and the tart raspberries providing counterpoint.

We found the staff, and particularly our young waitress to be pleasant, courteous, enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and able to offer helpful suggestions regarding the many selections on the menu. All in all, McCormick & Schmick provides a welcome addition to the up scale chain restaurants at Riverside Square Mall. 

Last reviewed 10/02
Grumpy Gourmet