Italian/Continental

Felidia is the flagship restaurant owned by Lidia Bastianich, who is well known in the culinary world for her ubiquitous appearances on television, her cook books, and her participation in culinary and charitable events. With a cultural background stemming from the area surrounding the Adriatic, her tastes have obviously been shaped by Northern Italian and Istrian Peninsula influences. In addition to Felidia, she owns Becco in New York, and Lidia's in Kansas City. 

For we mere mortals, trying to write a critical review of Lidia Bastianich (or Executive Chef Fortunata Nectar, for that matter) is as intimidating as for a devoutly religious disciple to criticize the Almighty. It is unseemly to attempt to find points of criticism of such awe inspiring creators of tastes and textures. 

Our most recent reservation was for early Saturday evening when the staff was preoccupied with getting the theater crowd fed and out the door in time for their Broadway appointments. At least that was the excuse given when we caused a bit of confusion by asking whether they offered a tasting dinner. The correct answer should have been "yes indeed", but our server had to check with several of his associates before returning with the answer. And what a tasting dinner it was, celebrating foods from the Italian regions of Abruzzo and Lazio. It was a four course dinner offered at $65, or with paired wines at $115. As we were celebrating Iona's birthday, we without hesitation opted for wine pairing. 

First came a complimentary hors d'oeuvre of a humus like chick pea paste dressed with aromatic olive oil. Along with the crusty Italian bread and bread sticks, it got the meal off to a terrific start. This was followed by the first course, small Maine sweet shrimp with sliced artichokes sautéed with pureed fava beans and mint. The small shrimp were tender and delicious and the fava beans and mint added exactly the right touch of flavor. The wine paired with this course, Cerasuolo, 1997, Valentini, like all four of the wines served, had been carefully selected to complement the dish without masking any of the flavors. 

Next came small raviolis filled with pear and both fresh and aged Pecorino cheese. Pecorino is a sheep's milk cheese that is greatly preferred to cow's milk cheeses. The wine, Loir', 1994, Illuninati Abruzzi, not only stood up to the cheese, but complimented the undertones of pear. 

The piece de resistance was veal saltimbocca. From Iona's early days in the area of Coney Island, she was familiar with this dish made with veal pounded thin and rolled with strips of prosciutto and cheese with fresh sage. In this instance however, tender morsels of veal tenderloin medallions were layered with prosciutto and fresh sage, but without cheese. Accompanying the meat dish was fresh spinach. Dan has been a spinach lover, but never before had he tasted anything so savory as the medley of flavors Chef Nicotra had created with the addition of garlic and black raisins. The red wine, I Puattro Mori, 1998, Castel de Paolis, was just robust enough to compliment the delicate flavors of the dish. 

The dessert, dried black mission fig torrone in apricot sauce, was a most interesting combination of flavors. Iona was expecting fresh figs, but instead it was more of a loaf in the form of a nougat. It also had the distinct flavor of walnut. The wine served was Poggio dei Gelsi,1995, Felesco, Lazio.

Spend an evening at Felidia, and it will be obvious why Lidia Bastianich has gained such imminent stature in professional culinary circles.

Last reviewed 6/01
Grumpy Gourmet