American

Middlesex County, New Jersey now boasts several good restaurants. Many are in New Brunswick, but one of our favorites is a relatively small BYOB in Metuchen. It is owned by chef-proprietor Dan Slobodien, who is extremely creative in pulling together what sometimes seems like strange combinations to create wonderful flavors and textures. For example, at one time he served salmon with red cabbage. At first we turned up our nose but very trustingly tried it anyway. Now we're hoping it will return to the menu with the seasonal change.

On any Saturday evening many of the old time Metuchen residents, as well as younger newcomers can be found at this friendly spot. Mostly the service is prompt, friendly and courteous, although on one busy Saturday night recently we found it painfully slow. After our wine was poured we asked for bread, but were told it would be served as soon as our order was taken. Unfortunately that took a while, leaving us with nothing to nibble on while our sauvignon blanc remained on the table getting warm. 

Always on the menu are pirogues, which are created in many interesting variations to make them both savory and sweet. Some are made from basic potato and cheese, but we prefer the more inventive fillings which might include artichokes, lamb, or various market-available ingredients. Also the calamari is always tender and well prepared, and is served with both a traditional red sauce and a very tasty aioli (garlic and flavored mayonnaise).

We did have a minor disappointment recently when we were served a lack-luster spinach salad. It was supposed to contain horseradish, which was not evident, and the spinach was mature leaves and veins rather than baby leaves. Further, the dressing seemed painted on rather than drizzled. But in spite of an occasional minor disappointment, Dan's on Main never fails to get our overall approval.

There always are some delicious pasta dishes. Recently Iona had penne pasta with shrimp, red peppers, peas, and prosciutto in a very light cream sauce. As usual, all the ingredients were of highest quality, the light cream sauce didn't mask the other flavors, and the combination went together wonderfully. Dan ordered scallops, shrimp and asparagus with an interesting touch - braised lettuce. The presentation was attractive, the scallops and shrimp were tender, the asparagus spears properly cooked, and the lettuce lightly braised so as to retain a bit of crispness. As always, the ingredients provided a tasty medley of flavors.

It is our recollection that in earlier days the menu had a greater selection of unusual and inventive dishes. As an example, we miss appetizers such as the sparklingly fresh tuna tartare that seems to have vanished from the menu. Perhaps Chef Slobodian has found there is greater demand for more usual fare, or maybe it is the result of his effort to control costs. We always marvel at how this restaurant can continue to offer such delicious food at such reasonable prices. On the prix fix menu, a three-course dinner is still only $29. We have noted that Chef Slobodien seems to avoid the more expensive cuts such as rack of lamb, but he more than makes up for it through his ingenious creativity in blending luscious flavors.

Last reviewed 10/02
Grumpy Gourmet