French

One of our many favorite restaurants in North Jersey is Chez Dominique, located on out-of-the-way Bedford Street, just off the main drag in Bergenfield. This is the same location where for many years the former Chez Madelaine operated. It is now owned and operated by Dominique and Eileen Payraudeau. It takes only a few bites to convince the first time visitor that Dominique is not only well schooled in the basic culinary arts, but that he has considerable creative talents as well.

This BYOB restaurant has the feeling about it of a rather small, cozy Swiss chalet. The wait staff greets every diner with a cheerful smile and a warm greeting. The chalkboard menu with all the daily selections is brought to your table, and each item described. Then comes the tough decision-making. Every dish sounds absolutely delectable, and regular patrons know that no matter what they order, it will be sumptuous.

Appetizers are in the range of $6:50 - $8:00. We've never been unhappy with any appetizer, but of course some are better than others. One that should be tried - should it be on the menu when you go - is shrimp with eggplant caviar. The shrimp are always plump and well prepared, and
served on a delicious lightly dressed salad. Iona thought the pink peppercorns added interesting zest, but Dan considered them a bit disconcerting. Another fantastic appetizer is lightly smoked house salmon. It is served with capers and fresh peppercorns. Also, the crab cake appetizer has very little filler, and is served garnished with asparagus, kernels of corn, and shallots in a reduction of fish stock.

Appetizers are always followed by a lackluster mixed leaf salad that would benefit from the addition of more acid (vinegar, lemon juice, Dijon or whatever). During a recent visit walnuts had been added, which did little to change our opinion.

Most dinners are in the range of $25. If you're a seafood lover, and you're lucky enough to find marmite on the menu, it must be tried. It is similar to a bouillabaisse, or fish stew. Chef Dominique prepares it with just the right seasoning and just the right overtones of Pernod. Another recent selection was a refreshingly different dish of snapper. Although the fish was a bit dry, it was saved by the medley of flavors and textures created by mango salsa, vegetables, and white cabbage with onions. During one visit Iona ordered the coq au vin, which was mouth watering delicious. The chicken was browned and slowly simmered in red wine with pearl onions and chunks of country ham, and served on a bed of noodles. She is normally reluctant to eat chicken on the bone - and for that matter she doesn't normally eat anything but light meat. But in this case the chicken was so fall-off-the-bone tender, and the ham lent such a wonderful, smoky quality that she couldn't stop until the last morsel was eaten and the last drop of gravy sopped up. Desserts are around $7, and are all made in house. One specialty is a chocolate soufflé for two. Because it takes a while to prepare, it should be ordered early in the meal, but we're never sure until the end just what dessert, if any, we will want. If it's on the menu when you visit, be sure to try the classic tarte Tatin; caramelized apples with buttery pastry, which comes with vanilla and chocolate ice cream. It makes a delightful ending to a delicious meal.

Last reviewed 7/02
Grumpy Gourmet