Seafood/American

A large, orange block building looking somewhat like a cement bunker (we'll respectfully stop short of saying ugly), sets just east of the Garden State Parkway on Route 4 East in Paramus, NJ. It houses a very formidable new restaurant called Bisque, which opened early this year (2001).

Obviously, a lot of judicious planning (and money) has gone into the interior design. Dark wood paneling and well placed banquettes do much towards providing a cozy atmosphere in what would otherwise be simply a large, cavernous space. Our first visit was a few weeks after opening, and the staff seemed to be a bit confused and disorganized. We had to compliment them however for their courteous attention and willingness to please. Our subsequent visit has shown they have gotten their act together and have everything running more smoothly.

Bisque has a well-chosen wine list with some very affordable selections. The menu dominates in seafood, but for landlubbers there is a good variety of interestingly prepared chicken, chops, and steak. There also is a rather extensive raw bar. One offering, a seafood sampler for $60, was ordered by the table next to us. It was very attractively served in a tower arrangement, and appeared to be suitable for at least two people with hearty appetites, or as an appetizer for several people.

As for prices, many appetizers are about $9, but with some as much as twice that. Entrees are $20 and up, with most in the neighborhood of $25. Desserts are $7-9. 

On our recent visit our appetite was whetted with a basket of peasant style rye bread and a wonderfully spicy herbal olive oil. We then shared a Thai steak salad made with strips of beef in a bed of baby spinach, daikon sprouts, and roasted red peppers, and topped with pickled ginger. It was tasty and well seasoned, although a bit hot, and somehow the pickled ginger just didn't seem to belong.

For entrees we ordered Chilean sea bass and soft shell crab. The bass was served on a bed of bok choy and lemon basmati rice, flavored with a sauce of red pepper and tamarind. The fish was flaky and well prepared. All in all, it was an excellent combination of flavors and textures. The only criticism might be that the bok choy was a little over cooked, but perhaps we're being too picky.

The soft shell crab in tempura batter had a wonderful flavor and texture. It seemed however, that the kitchen was a bit too ambitious with the presentation, which tended to mask the sweetness and crunchiness of the crab, and the sauce actually made the crab soggy.

Desserts were very appealing, and we couldn't resist the temptation to share one called "sexual chocolate". It was a molded mousse topped with cherries and chocolate sauce. The texture was quite sensuous but we agreed that it was not as good as it sounds, and somehow was not a great climax. 

Last reviewed 7/01
Grumpy Gourmet